5 AM Saturday morning.

Wide-awake, I got out of bed as quietly as possible. Tiptoeing into the closet I collected some morning clothes by feeling around in the dark, and then stole away past the door into the moody stairway. I moved at a snail’s pace down the steps making sure not to stumble or awaken Cheryl, who was soundly sleeping, totally unaware of my plan. It was still dark as dawn had not yet broken, so I ventured out the front door with a flashlight in hand to find my way down the steps and out to the studio. Once around the corner, I breathed easy as my silent escape had proven successful. (more…)

A large white envelope arrived in our mailbox yesterday. Our friend, Susan, sent Il Bollettino della Piccola Italia, The Little Italy Bulletin for us to check out and enjoy. We were expecting a flier or an announcement in the local newspaper, but no . . . instead we got the special supplement to The Daily Clintonian newspaper—a full 32-pages, recapping the events and festivities of the 45th annual celebrazione, celebration of the Italian heritage enjoyed and shared in that special mid-western town. (more…)

Several years ago, we stopped at the small alimentari, food market in the outskirts of Fiesole, Borgunto to buy some eggs on the way home. This particular market is so small, if there are more than 4 customers, you have to wait your turn outside. The owner is usually there, providing his personal touch—you simply tell him what you want and he collects everything together for you. (more…)

Florence is the queen city of restaurants. There are literally hundreds of them, from quaint to elegant. From simple to gourmet. From traditional to nouvelle. Tourists pack the restaurants every night of the week, and all will gladly relive their favorites with you. But where can you find great traditional food at local prices? This is the real question. And with this question, the field narrows. (more…)

Stefano arrived right on time.

Our favorite vivaio, gardener came walking up the steps toward the front door. But rather than watching where he was going, he was looking around at the plants that had grown up since he was last here. As Em walked out the door, Stefano looked up with a surprised grin. “Em-air-sone!” he enthusiastically called out, his Italian voice drawing out the sounds. This is Stefano’s characteristic greeting. I was only a few steps behind and he quickly rushed in for kisses on both cheeks, once again daring to say the hardest word for any Italian, my name. “Sheh-reel, sempre piu giovane! Cheryl, always younger!” (I like this man.) (more…)

Lino finally went into pensione, retirement. He was the only barbiere, barber in the little hilltop town of Fiesole for over 50 years. That’s a lot of clipping, snipping and barber talk in the mirror. He gave the best haircut ever. After his heart attack, he rallied and made a comeback for another 2 years. But eventually, he just couldn’t do it anymore, as he was creeping up on 80 years old. It was his life. (more…)

We hit a snag.

It was an ordinary evening—or so we thought—when the dinner discussion morphed into a mild debate, which then turned into a significant disagreement, just before the fight broke out. Now, it seems to have been a strange topic that neither of us really remembers at this point. We do, however, recall in crystal clear detail the feelings that accompanied the fateful conversation that seemed to go on and on and on. (more…)

Everybody wants to watch the sunset, don’t they?

Whether we want to or not, it won’t happen for us because we live on the shady side of the hill. That means the days seem much shorter because shadows start creeping in early from the late afternoon sun. Sometimes it feels like dusk, yet when we drive around the hill there’s a beautiful sun-filled day still underway, with seemingly hours left to go. (more…)