Imagine a hiking trail 100 miles long with no particular destination. Rather than hiking to some specific place, what if the trail encircled a landmark, the most magnificent symbol of the Italian Renaissance—the Duomo, Cattedrale Santa Maria del Fiore—the main cathedral in the heart of Florence? Well, there is such a trail, called The Renaissance Ring, Anello del Rinascimento. The hiking experience results in the deepening of the magic and mystery of that special place known as Firenze—the heart of Tuscany!
The Pinnacle
The famous dome of the Duomo, was thought to be impossible to build, but has been a reality now for nearly 600 years. It’s both a miracle and masterpiece, designed in the 15th century by the great Filippo Brunellischi. Located near the banks of the River Arno, the unforgettable dome can be seen miles away, rising prominently amid the red tile roofs of the old city center. It looms with a rather surreal presence, seen from miles away.
Florence Italy
Florence has history, art and architecture like no other city. However, not many understand the unique relationship the “City of the Lily” has always shared with the rolling hills and beautiful countryside that surrounds the Arno river valley—the small towns that grew up alongside her, but certainly not in her shadow. Characterized by centuries of mutual influence and respect, the connections between the various areas become apparent as you experience the rather intimate valley, not from its center, but rather from its outer edges.
The people who lived in, and loved the surrounding countryside, gazed down into the city where the compelling dome stands watch. Or, if by chance the Duomo was not within view, they knew it was always there, visible from a nearby point just around the bend. And just like us, they surely felt a comfort at its familiar, awesome presence.
To celebrate the relationship between Florence and the communities that hold it, local organizations were tasked to create a continuous ring of trails leading past monasteries, castles, ancient walled cities, and country churches that all grew up together in that larger “Florentine family.” While unraveling the story, we’ve walked meadows, old Roman roads, mule trails, through olive groves, vineyards and cypress woods. There are 13 unique itineraries that break the 170 kilometers (100 miles) down into day-length pieces. With the help of train and bus schedules in hand, we charted our excursions, to experience the entire circle—slowly and thoughtfully, just like it evolved over the centuries.
Every leg of the grand circle can be coupled with a quaint overnight, or a relaxing Italian meal and a bus or train ride home. In any case, there will be a series of unforgettable experiences that add up to one grand loop around one of the world’s most fascinating regions.
Below is a companion story about one particular section of the circular trail that is known for its intact collection of ancient “Butter Houses,” scattered around the mountainside. Just click below to discover the rest of the story which is a unique hiking exploration all by itself.
C’era una volta, once upon a time, in the Tuscan hills just north of Florence, Italy, lived some very poor farmers. Their homes were usually one room, built high in the mountains, where both family and animals dwelled together. Life was difficult, but they were thankful for what they had.
Turning from warm summer breezes in the shade, to cool gray rains, the fall season clearly was approaching. Winter wouldn’t be far behind. We were grateful to be staying in a friend’s small unused apartment in Florence, just across the Arno river, with easy access to the historic center—a delightful 10 minute walk. We enjoyed being in a different part of the city, which offered us new perspectives.
We had stayed in many different places over the past four years as we waited for the long-delayed completion of our dream-studio in the nearby Florentine countryside. Our romantically naïve plan was to run off together to a peaceful place of inspiration, leaving behind the often hectic pace of the Silicon Valley. The Tuscan hills beckoned.
Awesome view
We imagined ourselves living a simple life in nature with just the bare necessities—a small stone one room studio with an awesome view, where we could write stories and music about our experiences of life in Italy. We planned to share heartfelt conversations in front of an old open Tuscan fireplace, while sipping on hot mugs of coffee—dreaming, creating, spinning story and song into contemporary fables and fairytales that could actually come true. Still very much in love after nearly 30 years together, we were up for the challenge of taking our relationship to the next level, whatever that meant—longing to find out.
We decided to recommit
The message of another delay in the project arrived on that cold rainy day, and we felt our patience fray. Frustrated and deeply saddened by the thought of yet another problem, we actually considered ending the project. Just call it quits. As we talked it over, though, the vision slowly started coming back into view. We reminisced about our feelings and desires that led to this dream in the first place. We found ourselves re-engaging, breathing new life into our intentions. Determination and commitment rallied to fill in the gaps as we took a collective deep breath. Looking into each other’s eyes, we both felt a shared resolve.The answer: the dream must continue. The strength of our partnership literally rose-up in that moment of need to protect our fragile possibilities.
As is our custom, we turned to music and story to sort out the jumble of feelings we were experiencing—the hope, love and appreciation for both the challenges and successes. We decided to write a song to commemorate that time as if we were getting married again—recommitting to our shared vision, the romantic dream, the Tuscan studio. It became a ceremony of rebirth (Renaissance) in our little borrowed home in Florence.
Music can sort things out
Friends Patrizia and Virginio dropped by for an unexpected visit later that evening. We had just finished a rough version of the song, and decided to sing it for them. They quietly listened as we stumbled through our newly penned lyrics and still-settling melody. Little did we know, that song would became the touchstone for this journey of the heart. We were delighted to share that moment of celebration and hope with them as they unknowingly became silent partners in our autumn sojourn.
On that cold, damp fall night, we did exactly what our hearts desired, fulfilling the essence of our shared dream. We vowed an Uncommon Promise to one another, knowing that it would be strong enough to carry us through—whatever was to come!
Music
Uncommon Promise
Here’s the song we wrote nearly 20 years ago to commemorate that turning point—commitment no matter what! It remains a touchstone for our relationship to this day. The name is as you might expect, “Uncommon Promise.”
Note: This post became the first to be recreated into a podcast with additional commentary, also under the name of “Uncommon Promise.”
Cheryl & Emerson
Quality time is undeniably great for relationships. We've discovered that quantity of time can provide that quality. Perhaps it takes Time to Partner.
Quality time is undeniably great for relationships. We've discovered that quantity of time can provide that quality. Perhaps it takes Time to Partner.
Uncommon promise 