Imagine a hiking trail 100 miles long with no particular destination. Sound strange? What if you could actually see the focus of your wanderings, yet never arrive there? What if the trail encircled the most magnificent symbol of the Italian Renaissance—the Duomo, Cattedrale Santa Maria del Fiore—the main cathedral in the heart of Florence? Now, this is really getting interesting. Well, there is such a trail—where the real destination is a deepening of the magic and mystery of that special place known as Firenze—the heart of Tuscany—an experience like no other!
The famous dome of the Duomo, was thought to be impossible to build, but has been a reality now for nearly 600 years. It’s both a miracle and masterpiece, designed by the great Filippo Brunelleschi in the 15th century. Located near the banks of the river Arno, the unforgettable dome can be seen miles away, rising stolidly amid the red tile roofs of the old city center.
Florence, as we all know, has history, art and architecture like no other city. However, not many understand the unique relationship the “City of the Lily” has always shared with the rolling hills and beautiful countryside that surrounds the Arno valley—the small towns that grew up alongside her, but certainly not in her shadow. Characterized by centuries of mutual influence and respect, the connections between the various areas become palpable as you experience the rather intimate valley, not from its center, but rather from its outer edges.
The people who lived in, and loved the surrounding countryside, also gazed down on the compelling dome that changed the course of architectural history. Or, if by chance the Duomo was not within view, they knew it was always there, just around the next bend. And just like us, they surely smiled at the thought of its awesome presence.
A group was commissioned in just before the new millenium, to create a continuous ring of trails leading past monasteries, castles, ancient walled cities, and country churches that all grew up together in that larger “Florentine family.” While unraveling the story, we’ve walked meadows, old Roman roads, mule trails, through olive groves, vineyards and cypress woods. Creatively linked together, the series of trails is known as the Anello del Rinascimento, or Renaissance Ring. There are 13 unique itineraries that break the 170 kilometers (100 miles) down into bite-size pieces. Day excursions, spread out over time, can be a great way to experience the entire circle—slowly and thoughtfully, just like it evolved over the centuries.
One leg of the circular trail has a unique theme all its own, il sentiero delle Burraie, or “Trail of the Butter Houses,” hidden deep within the Florentine hills. That section of the trail is a treasure hunt for the rustic little stone buildings that peek out from the ground. No two are alike! Every leg of the grand circle can be coupled with a quaint overnight, or a relaxing Italian meal and a bus or train ride home. In any case they will be a series of unforgettable experiences that add up to one grand loop around one of the world’s most fascinating regions.
May 8, 2013
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The Butter Houses
C’era una volta, once upon a time . . . in the Tuscan hills just north of Florence, Italy, lived some very poor farmers. Their homes were usually one room, built high in the mountains, where both family and animals dwelled together. Life was difficult, but they were thankful for what they had.
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